Molds & Tiny Pieces

Molds and Tiny

Mega Mold is fun. Pretty amazing stuff. Cool Tools sells Mega Mold in a variety of sizes. RioGrande sells Rio Cold Mold, but I like Cool Tool’s molding compound much better for this kind of use.

If you want to know what I mean by “Tiny Domed Pieces” scroll down to the last photos on this page. I made Tiny Stamps in the previous PMC Tidbits and Tricks, called Tiny Stamps, Homemade.

I opened my Mega Mold and discovered I had only a small amount left.

So I searched the studio and discovered I had re-ordered it. I knew I had some—I always keep this stuff on hand. It’s so easy and quick to use; furthermore, you’d be surprised how often it comes in handy.

I got all my tools ready first, which is gospel when working with PMC and related activities in the studio.

Tools for Mega Mold include a sheet of glass, thickness slats, an acrylic roller, and whatever I am
using to make an impression.
In this case, I am using Tiny Stamps that I made previously.

So, I rolled a ball of Part A and a similar size ball of Part B.

I used the burnisher or another tool to scoop the parts out of their respective jars. I’ve discovered if I use my fingers, I get the stuff under my fingernails and sometimes contaminate the jar of blue with white or white with blue.

This is RioGrande’s compound, which I had my doubts about at this stage already,
seeing as I couldn’t get out the cracks upon rolling.
Sorry Rio. Maybe I’m missing something here.

I knead the blue and white balls together until they are one homogenous light blue color.

I place this ball on my glass sheet, between my red and purple slats. I roll this with my acrylic roller,
pre-greased with Mega Mold’s oil already on my hands from the kneading process.

I make impressions with my Tiny Stamp.
As you press the stamp in the Mega Mold around it rises.
If your stamps are tool close together, they will be distorted by this. 

If you making say, a coin impression, I would place a second piece of glass on top and press the button in that way. Sometimes, even with that I need to poke the Mega Mold from the sides, back toward the button from the edges in order to get clean edges. The idea is to get as clean as possible impression with as flat as possible top and bottom surfaces.

Freshly impressed mold. I take this on the sheet of glass and set it aside to cure and set up.
It takes only about 5 minutes for it to harden or cure.
To test, press a fingernail into one edge. If it leaves a mark, then it’s not cured.

Here a bunch of homemade, blue Mega Molds. 

The pinkish color mold in the lower right is RioGrande’s brand. The impressions did not stick into this mold with as much detail as the Mega Mold. I don’t know, maybe I didn’t follow directions or took too long to make the impression with a stamp.

Here are more Mega Molds. The salmon colored ones were made using embossed paper and a brass jewelry component.
The blue one was purchased, I believe, at Cool Tools. At Cool Tools, these are called Antique Molds.
Cool Tools has a lovely video tutorial on each mold's description page,
including how to make the top flat (cut with tissue blade).

Objects to use when making your own Mega Molds. Never turn down an antique button.

Mega Mold typewriter keys

There are an abundance of molds on the market, for many mediums.

Mega Mold Mod Podge Mold

This is a manufactured mold for Mod Podge.

Mega Molds by Lynn

An online search can produce lots of unexpected goodies, such as this one on Pinterest.

The top does not always need to be flat; but then again, I see some of these have been trimmed flat on top.

To continue on here, I plan on making some PMC3 pieces with this mold. I get my tissue blade or clay scraper ready.

I roll some (too large) balls of clay and place them on my mold. I usually use older or dryer clay for these—
it’s a good way to use up the last of a batch.

I take my tissue blade or clay scraper and pressiing hard slide it over the impression, removing excess clay.
If I didn’t have to take a photo with my left hand, I’d be anchoring the clay in place on the mold with one finger.

Immediately, I tip the mold upside down and bend it so the clay pieces drop out. I can make a bunch of impressions this way without having to wait for them to dry in place in the mold. If they dry in the mold they stick.

Also, I get to select the ones that worked and re-use the clay on those that didn’t come out so well. 

Then I let them dry. I clean these up now or when I’m about to use them. I store all my little pieces in, what else, tiny jars.

What do I do with my Tiny Domed Pieces? What would you do with them?

If you made lots and lots of tiny ones, you could incorporate them into the bezel or main part of a design.

Here is how I used mine.

Bear Tracks Post Earrings with Tiny Domed Pieces

Animal Tracks Post Earrings with lots of Tiny Domed Pieces

For online courses in metal clay, go to I Love Silver, where you learn how to design and create your own silver creations.

© Kris A Kramer 2019